e alignment of the planets and stars. By some accounts there were 36,000 weddings happening that weekend in Delhi, but the more realistic number is 4,000, which was still pretty incredible. Regardless, you could feel it in the air. Everyone was talking about the traffic and everyone was leaving their shops to go to parties. And the weddings consist of three to five parties traditionally taking place over multiple days. My favorite part was that the grooms traditionally ride a white horse or elephant to the brides’ 
families’ houses, so all over the city you'd see uncomfortable grooms riding through the street. The horses and the bands that accompany the groom as they leave and arrive were suppose to be booked 20 times a day and the you frequently saw them in the streets. As one of my friends said, "who knew, in India, Prince Charming really does ride up on a white horse."I was fortunate enough to be invited to a wedding by my cousin's close friend, whose has made me feel both welcome and at home in Delhi. She brought me to three of five parties of her cousin's wedding -- which was an incredible experience and a good e
xcuse to buy some fancy Indian clothes. The entrances to the house were drapped in strings of marigolds. The actual wedding party took place in a gigatic tent in the backyard of the family's house. The tent was white and periwinkle on the first night for the groom's school, house colors and then changed to more traditional reds and yellows for the next party. Each party had a full meal of Indian fare and was some of the best food that I've had here -- buffets with about 30 choices. I never thought I'd say that the smorg at a Jewish wedding could be outdone. The dancing was a mix of modern and traditional Indian/Punjabi, which has the great arm and wrist movements and up and down sholders you see in Bollywood dancing. I'm sure I looked like a fool trying to fit in, but it was a blast. The best part of the decor was the women's dresses... sparkling sarees in every color and sequened dress suits and jewels that looked like they belonged in a museum. Also, the Singh family has more cousins than the Levine's (my mom's, mom's family), which is hard to believe. And they live literally all over the world, but still maintain their connection to family and India.
My favorite day was the third party -- still before the ceremony, and still
separate from the bride's side (who were having their own parties!). This party had the most traditions. The groom's older, female relatives -- sisters, aunts, and cousins hold a large scarf over the groom for shade and sing as each one takes a turn dabbing him with oils and sandlewood paste to clean him and prepare him for his wedding day. Afterward they wave some money above his head to ward off the evil spirts which will obviously be attracted to beautified bride groom and then donate the money to charity. Today, it is a ceremonial cleaning and the women were having fun, while the groom sat, and if not enjoying the slathering, then enjoying the loving attention.
The other activities of the party included the women getting mendi , or henna painted on their hands and arms and a table where the women received bangle bracelets as a party gift. I missed the actual ceremony when I got a bad case of Delhi belly (from a swanky, western coffee house, of all places), but I'm sure it was as beautiful and I send my best wishes and prayers to the newlyweds.
Beyond the festivities, I'll say that my hosts, and I include the entire family, were very gracious to let me join in their festivities and I wish that they know how much I appreciated kindness.
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